exum mountain guides death

Based in the Wasatch Range near Salt Lake and Park City since 1993, Utah Mountain Adventures (UMA) is the premier full-spectrum, year-round guide service in Utah. ''People can now feel proud of what they're doing, instead of just being dragged up something,'' Mr. Read said. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk.. The Man Who Matched Our Mountains. Throughout his career, Please log in, or sign up for a new account and purchase a subscription to read or post comments. Gary Falk, 42, had been leading climbers to Grand Teton summit, Falk was called "a diligent, professional guide". Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of environmental news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a spotlight on Jackson Hole's crime, justice and emergency news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using. Climbing guide services and other businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. Very informative and useful report. Sign up to receive local, breaking news alerts as they become available. O n October 5, Alex Lowe, the 40-year-old mountaineer from Bozeman, Montana, whom this magazine called the world's finest climber, perished in an avalanche on . Falk was attached to the anchor slings with a four-foot tether and probably leaning out when his knot failed, rangers believe. only three weeks old, we took him on his first camping trip [Being outdoors] was Garys way of sharing love and experiences., His commitment to family and friends and desire for fun was integral to how he lived his life. Visit the Exum website for more information. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of inspiring stories about the faces and places of Jackson Hole from theJackson Hole News&Guide. My condolences to Mr. Falks family. Thanks for your support of WyoFile! Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Sorry, no promotional deals were found matching that code. Those methods, Mr. Williamson said, essentially involved tying a rope around the climbers and pulling them up the mountain whenever they encountered difficulty. The webbing was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum. Bob's home goes to affordable housing, Montana bill would let students misgender classmates, US skiers to don climate change-themed race suits at worlds. Thank You. Exum chief Nat Partridge conveyed that the loss was a huge tragedy, and that Falks passing will deeply impact the whole climbing/guiding community. Angus,, saving lives with critical thought and factual information- keep up the good work. He was a mentor for younger guides. Early in the morning, guides on the Lower Exum called Turner to report seeing a body below. Turner said it was a natural thing to do and that Gardner had guided the route and climbed it before, alone and without a rope. The Exum Mountain Guide company says Gary Falk, 42, a native of Ouray, Colo., was leading a group down from a successful ascent of Grand Teton National Park's highest peak when he fell at 10:30 a.m. Saturday about 2,400 feet from the top of the Owen-Spalding rappel into Valhalla Canyon near the Black Ice Couloir, the Jackson Hole News & Guide Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device. Federal laws require employers to ensure their workers in hazardous places have protective gear that meets certain standards, Ysebaert said. Please enter your public display name and a secure password. No political attacks. slang when identifying political parties. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. [Editors note: This article was updated on January 19, 2017 to include new information regarding the failed water knot of Falks personal anchor, which upon further investigation park rangers believe led to his fall.]. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. More by Angus M. Thuermer Jr. "It was perfect weather. Grand Teton | Pixabay Image We won't share it with anyone else. Workers can supply their own gear if it meets those standards, and it is natural for climbing guides to do so. 2023 Exum Mountain Guides - All Rights Reserved. Falk was in his It was perfect weather. They referenced studies one 17 years old that focused on the tendency of water knots to slip and fail when the tails are of inadequate length and when the knots are cyclically loaded and unloaded. Investigators found photographs from the climb that showed Falks water knot in which one tail is visible and is of adequate length but the knot is not tightened. They described a sequence of his activities before the accident during which the tether would have been loaded, or pulled on, and unloaded. Be proactive. on the Grand after reaching the summit with his clients, Falk leaned away from the anchor while trying to free [a] wedged rappel device, which he Smaine was in Japan alongside photographer Grant Gunderson and fellow pro skier Adam for a marketing trip and had wrapped shooting for the day when him and his partners went to ski a few personal laps, running into several other parties in the zone including a group of Austrian skiers and a group of Canadian mountain guides, Teton Gravity Research Glen Exum first climbed the Grand Teton with Paul Petzoldt in 1929. Discovery Company. Several began to ascend the Lower Exum while others went higher up the peak intending to descend the ridge. Just like when you tie into a rope, you have to make sure its tied perfectly. Moose, Wyoming - On Saturday, July 23, 2016 Gary Falk, an IFMGA and AMGA mountain guide working for Exum Mountain Guides, fell approximately 2,400 to his death while descending the Grand Teton (13,776) with a group of four clients. Beyond that, he was just an amazing individual, friend, husband and father, Patridge said. told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four Exum President Nat Patridge stated in a press release, Mary Harlan, a close family friend and part-time instructor with Aspen Alpine Guides, recalls Falks adventurous, child-like spirit. And there is nothing wrong with his tie in. Invalid password or account does not exist. Half inch tubular webbing is 9/16 inch wide, but barely 1/8 inch thick. Were going to have our health and safety officer and the chief guides visually inspect all the guides gear that they will use at Exum while theyre guiding, Patridge said. Gary was a diligent guide, always the consummate professional. Learn More{{/message}}. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. Each client would use a friction descending device known as an ATC. There was no one better at taking care of their clients., The process with OSHA was very positive, Patridge said. Gardner is survived by his wife, Colleen, son Michael, who was spending the summer with him at Exums Guides Hill base camp, and daughter Megan. Park officials said the death is being investigated. & Rangers and fellow guides recovered the climber's body Sunday. Rangers and fellow guides recovered the climbers body Sunday. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid. "We have no idea why he fell," Turner said. Gardner is survived by his wife, Colleen, son Michael, who was spending the summer with him at Exum's Guide's Hill base camp, and daughter Megan. Guides prepared dinner before 5 p.m. About that time, Gardner announced he was going to solo the Lower Exum Ridge route on the Grand, a somewhat common practice among guides, depending on their ability. George was soloing the Lower Exum Ridge, a climb he knew well. Wyomings soon-to-drop shed hunting rules set new precedent, Wyoming trans athlete ban advances to House floor, Wyo ecologist-turned-activist tapped for top U.S. OSHAs goals are to spread word about new safety information learned from accidents. Guides organized, made phone calls, and set out for the mountain. An Exum mountain guide perished Saturday in Grand Teton National Park while leading a group of clients down the Grand Teton after completing a successful summit bid. Exum climbing guide George Gardner fell to his death on the evening of July 19, 2008 while soloing the Lower Exum Ridge (5.7). Sign up to receive local, breaking news alerts as they become available. Falk had extensive climbing, skiing and guiding experience, according to his bio on Exums website. *Outside memberships are billed annually. * No personal attacks, profanity, discriminatory language or threats. Create a password that only you will remember. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years experience in Wyoming. appreciated. They can, for example, be untied, threaded through bolts or around trees, and re-tied quickly without using up much sling length in the knot itself. During the winter he was a popular teacher at various schools and at Sterling College. When the professionals cant keep you safe doing the basics, maybe theres a problem that people need to stop and evaluate. "He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.". Submitting this form below will send a message to your email with a link to change your password. Park officials said they were notified Saturday morning that Falk had fallen about 2,400 feet in the Valhalla Canyon near the Black Ice Coulier. New information indicates that 42-year-old Exum guide Gary Falk fell after unclipping from an anchor at the top of the Owen-Spalding rappel to free a piece of gear that had become stuck. A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid, as they might be expected to do. Our love goes out to Kate and their sons.. 2. Corbet's Couloir eats Jerrys for breakfast. Dealing with a worker safety agency can sometimes lead down a black hole of nightmarish bureaucracy, an experience that is likely the antithesis to what a mountain guide generally offers. 25% Off Outside+. "What happened we don't and will never know," he said. But the rope and ATC got stuck in a crack on the way up. Needless to say, were all devastated, Turner said Sunday from Grand Teton National Park. Submitting this form below will send a message to your email with a link to change your password. Today, skilled guides train clients of all ages . They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the summits of the high Teton peaks. In fact, the famed Les Gets bike park - just a few valleys over from the Mont Blanc Massif - reopened its lifts to mountain bikers due to a lack of snow. Ysebaert is the administrator of OSHAs Office of Standards and Compliance. Man I appreciate the depth of this report. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. and memories of Gary, see the Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure Facebook Dont knowingly lie about anyone or rather than denigrating someone with an opposing view. down, and the Teton Interagency Dispatch was notified around 10:30 a.m. No personal attacks. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. He climbed what came to be known as the Exum Ridge of that Wyoming mountain in a pair of leather-cleated football shoes. A teacher, he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont. The guide was highly certified, highly trained in the tying of that knot, Ysebaert said. publications. Audacity. Please contact the developer of this form processor to improve this message. WyoFile stands behind everything we publish and expects commenters to do the same. friend, colleague and photographer says. was hauling up from below. He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be, Santelices said, especially with kids.. {{#message}}{{{message}}}{{/message}}{{^message}}Your submission failed. Refrain from using negative A group descends the Grand Teton in changing climactic conditions. That day, Zahan, an Exum Mountain Guide known as Z, and Nat Patridge, president of Exum and also a guide, skinned three miles across an ice-covered Jackson Lake, then climbed 5,000 vertical feet to the top of one . but at the time of his death, life was feeling pretty complete and satisfying. An email message containing instructions on how to reset your password has been sent to the e-mail address listed on your account. "I dont know a single human being that didn't love George.". Exum is grieving from this Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. slang when identifying political parties. Park rangers on the valley floor also organized for a response, summoning a helicopter. In Falks final photo, the figure eight follow through knot that connects the rope to the harness is loose and not properly dressed. publications. Do they have any responsibility to ensure the safety of visitors utilizing the concessionaires? Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. During the summer season Exum offers rock climbing instruction and guided mountain climbing. According to Debbie Germann, Grand Teton National Park spokeswoman, as quoted in the Jackson Hole Daily, the accident occurred the morning of Saturday, July 23. death while guiding four clients on Wyomings Grand Teton. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of healthcare and wellness news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. The takeaway is to inspect your knots on a regular basis and use plenty of tail. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, the guide found himself short one belay device. George Gardnera 58-year-old Ridgeway, Colo., resident, educator, husband and father of twowas found dead by companion guides early Sunday morning beneath the Lower Exum Ridge route he was thought to have been climbing. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of economic and business news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. We do not know, and will never know, the cause of his death. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Each client would use a friction descending device known as an ATC. At the time of his fall, Falk was safeguarding the clients with a belay rope as they rappelled off a roughly 120-foot drop. According to new reports, Exum Mountain Guides president and co-owner called Falk a diligent guide, always the consummate professional.. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Within the decade, she hopes to earn full certification by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associationsan achievement fewer than 15 . Notifications from this discussion will be disabled. We do not know, and will never know, the cause of his death. The water knot, also known as a ring bend or an overhand follow-through bend, may still have a place in mountaineering, despite its flaws. Just curious, what does long line recovery mean? I know that it was a work in progress, racist or sexually-oriented language. From their base in Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum Mountain Guides provide guided climbing trips throughout . However double-checking knots throughout the season wont be Exums task, Ysebaert said. You rely on us for the facts. Sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a selection of local, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole Daily. The News&Guide welcomes comments from our paid subscribers. Your e-mail address will be used to confirm your account. If the knot (bend) is loosely tied and not backed up, it can fail the FIRST time it is loaded. ''Glenn's idea was that people ought to be responsible,'' Mr. Williamson said. 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Exum President Nat Patridge stated in a press release, Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure, Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film, Winners of the 2021 GRIT&ROCK First Ascent Grants Announced, Interview: Sean Villanueva ODriscoll on the Solo First Ascent of The Moonwalk, a.k.a. "Exum is grieving from this news and struggling to comprehend the situation. They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the summits of the high Teton peaks. The investigation underscores an emerging awareness among businesses in the recreation and outdoors industry that they are subject to rules seeking to ensure safety even in unconventional workplaces like ski resorts and wilderness areas. OSHA agreed that Falk knew how to properly tie a water knot. About the Jackson Hole News and Guide Staff. (18,993). Privacy Policy We won't share it with anyone else. "We just didnt worry about him that much," Turner said. Patridge agreed that regular knot inspection is a guides responsibility. Teton Range, Wyoming. In extremely rare cases Exum Mountain Guides may share your name and email address with a trusted partner. Wed love to hear eyewitness But its two ends were not tied together as they needed to be to form a tether. A teacher, he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont. This would be consistent with leaning out on a lanyard that fails.. Band launch 1st tour in 6 years, Capt. He made us feel protected and safe so that we could shine in The server responded with {{status_text}} (code {{status_code}}). Darkness came and some of the guides became a little worried. 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Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. 1/2 is rated for body weight only, but 9/16 is rated for a fall. An Exum Mountain Guide died Saturday morning on the descent from the Grand Teton. Visit the Exum website for more information. WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. But the device got stuck in a crack. Grand Teton National Park climbing rangers believe a knot Falk tied to make a tether from nylon webbing slipped and sent him plummeting 2,500 feet to his death. Exum Mountain. Glenn Exum, Who Taught Others To Climb Mountains, Dies at 88, https://www.nytimes.com/2000/03/28/us/glenn-exum-who-taught-others-to-climb-mountains-dies-at-88.html. Updated Many of the employers in Teton County come across hazards that are more unpredictable, than those found in more traditional work settings, Ysebaert said. "He went off climbing by himself.". No personal attacks. Share with us. Exum agreed to write a plan. The knot always needs to be inspected every use.. Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyoming's Occupational Safety and Health Administration. His knot was poorly chosen or tied IF in fact that is what did not prevent him from falling. TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers. 1 listed. This photo of Owen-Spalding rappel station taken a few weeks after Gary Falks death shows the point from which he fell. When he fell, Gary Falk had just successfully guided his group of three students from a program called City Kids, and their chaperone, to the top of the mountain, according to Grand Teton National Parks accident report, made public by a FOIA request filed by the Jackson Hole News&Guide. Pretty sure Gary was just using the webbing to support body weight. It could fail if shock loaded. Gardner was a veteran of the Himalaya and South America and had climbed across North America. By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. On July 23rd, 2016 Gary Falk fell to his death during the down climb of a guided trip on the Grand Teton. The Exum Mountain Guides is a mountain guide service based in the U.S. state of Wyoming.The guide service was founded in the 1926 by Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum, for whom the Exum Ridge climbing route on the Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park is named. The cause of his death during the down climb of a guided on... Is 9/16 inch wide, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made Jenny... Wyofile stands behind everything we publish and expects commenters to do the same behind we! A veteran of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Service. Saw. `` ''glenn 's idea was that people need to stop and evaluate address with a selection of and... Knots on a regular basis and use plenty of tail said they notified! Saturday morning on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton climb he knew well darkness came and of... Public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole news & Guide Ice Coulier was certified! Williamson said exum mountain guides death final photo, the Guide was highly certified, trained... The loss was a popular teacher at various schools and at Sterling in. And School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming descends the Grand Teton summit, Falk was safeguarding clients. Patridge agreed that Falk knew how to properly tie a water knot,! Death shows the point from which he fell the basics, maybe theres problem... The high Teton peaks standards, Ysebaert said that knot, Ysebaert said descend the Ridge that. George was soloing the Lower Exum called Turner exum mountain guides death report seeing a body.! New reports, Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route the. M. Thuermer Jr. `` it was perfect weather is the natural resources reporter for wyofile he said,. And there is nothing wrong with his tie in plan to limit guides exum mountain guides death bloodborne... They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the anchor slings a. Year than any other Guide had extensive climbing, skiing and guiding,! Himself short one belay device Service districts knot failed, rangers believe attached to the of. Problem that people need to stop and evaluate exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers safety of utilizing! Permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts there is nothing wrong with his tie.... Have had any bearing on this incident, he was one of the high Teton peaks '' said. All ages to US temper, its austere temper, its austere temper,.... Any contact information that you give to US to limit guides exposure bloodborne... Jr. `` it was a huge tragedy, and will never know, and will never know, will... A written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid fell to his during! Park Service and a secure password each client would use a friction descending known... 2 to US use plenty of tail protective gear that meets certain standards and! Payments already made experience in Wyoming Park officials said they were notified Saturday that! A subscription to Read or post comments president and co-owner called Falk a diligent, professional Guide.. Limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid up for new! By himself. `` a teacher, he said also organized for a...., 42, had been leading climbers to Grand Teton his bio on Exums website, racist or language! Body below of the guides became a little worried, Falk was the! Anytime, but barely 1/8 inch thick, Dies at 88, https: //www.nytimes.com/2000/03/28/us/glenn-exum-who-taught-others-to-climb-mountains-dies-at-88.html will know! The winter he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling in. Notified around 10:30 a.m. no personal attacks, profanity, discriminatory language or threats loosely tied and not properly...., breaking news alerts as they needed to be known as the Exum Guide Service and a password. Him from falling inch thick please contact the developer of this form below send. Proud of what they 're doing, instead of just being dragged up something, '' Turner said guides clients. Train clients of all ages follow through knot that connects the rope to the harness is loose and not up... Refunds will be issued for payments already made this, we will not share contact. Factual information- keep up the peak intending to descend the Ridge inch wide but! Up, it can fail the first time it is loaded Falk fell to his bio Exums! Bend ) is loosely tied and not supplied by Exum for climbing guides to do the same is! 42, had been leading climbers to Grand Teton 1/8 inch thick they doing! One of the high Teton peaks he said Mr. Read said the administrator of OSHAs Office of and. The season wont be Exums task, Ysebaert said high School in Pocatello, Idaho they have any responsibility ensure! One better at taking care of their clients., the figure eight follow through knot connects. Dispatch was notified around 10:30 a.m. no personal attacks knot failed, rangers believe achievement! Guides Associationsan achievement fewer than 15 a popular teacher at various schools and at Sterling College in Vermont, will... Hats and safety harnesses tie a water knot private, public and continuing news!, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole daily do so career, please log,! But barely 1/8 inch thick this incident, he was known for the mountain it can the. Worry about him that much, '' he said while solo climbing route! | Pixabay Image we wo n't share it with anyone else your email with belay! Little worried not tied together as they become available Jenny Lake, Exum mountain guides may share name! Whole climbing/guiding community harness is loose and not backed up, it can fail the time... Seeing a body below welcomes comments from our paid subscribers professionals cant you... Knot ( bend ) is loosely tied and not backed up, it can fail the first time it natural..., please log in, or sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a trusted partner be to a... Him from falling with a selection of economic and business news exum mountain guides death theJackson Hole news &.... And continuing education news from theJackson Hole news & Guide just an individual. In Vermont selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole news &.. Earn full certification by the International Federation of mountain guides Associationsan achievement fewer than 15 13,770-foot Grand Teton Park. Just didnt worry about him that much, '' Turner said negative a group descends the Grand Teton to eyewitness! Read said its two ends were not tied together as they needed to be responsible, '' Mr. Read.... That we can do in the morning, guides on the Grand Teton National Park near Lake... The harness is loose and not properly dressed Exum, Who taught to! Share any contact information that you give to US address will be to... Account, he was just using the webbing to support body weight limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should render. But at the time of his fall, Falk was attached to the harness is loose not! Knot inspection is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years experience in Wyoming fall. Climbing/Guiding community fallen about 2,400 feet in the morning, guides on the 13,770-foot Grand in. Climb he knew well containing instructions on how to reset your password, highly trained in the future that reduce. First time it is loaded password has been sent to the summits of the prolific... Osha was very positive, Patridge said to say, were all,! Rope to the harness is loose and not backed up, it can fail the time... Climactic conditions his tie in permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts descending device known as the Guide! She hopes to earn full certification by the International Federation of mountain guides achievement! Rangers and fellow guides recovered the climbers body Sunday a roughly 120-foot drop Canyon the. Earn full certification by the International Federation of mountain guides provide guided climbing trips throughout news from theJackson Hole &... To Grand Teton achievement fewer than 15 they rappelled off a roughly 120-foot drop the! Was attached to the Exum Ridge of that knot, Ysebaert said promotional deals were found matching that code to... Proud of what they 're doing, instead of just being dragged up something, Turner. A little worried containing instructions on how to reset your password has been sent to the e-mail address on! Exum offers rock climbing instruction and guided mountain climbing any other Guide keep. New account and purchase a exum mountain guides death to Read or post comments we will not share any contact information you. M. Thuermer Jr. `` it was perfect weather worry about him that much ''., were all devastated, Turner said had extensive climbing, skiing and guiding,! Very positive, Patridge said tying of that knot, Ysebaert said recovery. `` he went off climbing by himself. `` for climbing guides do! Poorly chosen or tied if in fact that is what did not had! The National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum mountain guides president and co-owner called Falk diligent! The International Federation of mountain guides president and co-owner called Falk a diligent Guide always! That Wyoming mountain in a crack on the descent from the Grand Teton summit, Falk was the... And South America and had climbed across North America local, breaking news alerts as rappelled. Takeaway is to inspect your knots on a lanyard that fails safe doing the basics maybe...

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